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help does anybody no where i can by the flotation that goes on the side of canoe so it will not tip over lol thank
 

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Go to bwmarineproducts.com and look under accessories under "sponsons" These guys manufacture both SportsPal and Radisson lightweight aluminum canoes. They sell purpose built, foam sponsons for their canoes in the 12, 14, and 16ft models. I assume that, as was earlier mentioned, you might be able to make home made sponsons out of large diameter, pool noodles. If you do opt for the homemade variety, It would be good to see how sucessful you are. Regards....
 

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I've done the pool noodle thing and I have also attached 3 bouys on either side of my 15 fter used conduit pipe to thread them on then attahced to canoe works awesome and alot wider than pool noodle but noodles are cheaper can get a dollarama
 

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I've done the pool noodle thing and I have also attached 3 bouys on either side of my 15 fter used conduit pipe to thread them on then attahced to canoe works awesome and alot wider than pool noodle but noodles are cheaper can get a dollarama
Hi;

Did the pool noodles not work? I have a very unstable Old Town solo Pack canoe, and just bought some pool 'planks' on sale to try to stop the habit of tipping over. These 'planks' are the same foam as pool 'noodles', but are 60" x 5.75" x .75" 'planks'. Four glued together make one five foot 'plank' that is 3" thick, and of course, 5.75" wide. One to side should act as effective sponsons, I would think, but maybe I need to buy 2 more and make them 3.75" thick?

Also, I'm in the dark as to placement. Should they be glued right up to the gunwhales, leaving roughly 6" clearance between them and the canoe bottom [at mid canoe], or lower, with less clearance? The canoe is 12', flat-bottomed, no rocker, and pretty much straight-sided, [meaning close to a 'rt. angled' hull]. I don't know how much water it would draw, loaded, but I think 2-3". But that's just a guess.


Another option w0ould be to cut the planks in two, and have 2 planks, 30" x 5.75" x 6" each, one to a side. Would that be better, or worse?

Sure hope someone skilled can help me with this.

thanks,

chuck
 

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You could fasten your "planks" temporarily to a couple of 2x2 or 2x3s and create an "outrigger" by lashing or clamping the inboard ends of your 2x2s to 2 of the thwarts of your canoe or cut them in half lengthwise and fasten on either side of the canoe ahead of where you are seated. The further out from the hull, the more stable your canoe will be. A bit like those big Hawaiian outrigger canoes that are used in the surf. When u are done you can store the foam planks in your car and carry both the canoe and the "Outriggers" on the roof. Or, you could make a set of outriggers out of ABS or some such plastic piping. Regards,...
 

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You could fasten your "planks" temporarily to a couple of 2x2 or 2x3s and create an "outrigger" by lashing or clamping the inboard ends of your 2x2s to 2 of the thwarts of your canoe or cut them in half lengthwise and fasten on either side of the canoe ahead of where you are seated. The further out from the hull, the more stable your canoe will be. A bit like those big Hawaiian outrigger canoes that are used in the surf. When u are done you can store the foam planks in your car and carry both the canoe and the "Outriggers" on the roof. Or, you could make a set of outriggers out of ABS or some such plastic piping. Regards,...
Hi;

Thanks for responding. I'm trying to avoid 'outriggers' as I suspect they would get in the way, especially when landing a fish, or even just retrieving lures.

I'd much rather figure out a 'sponson' solution, a la 'Sportspal', etc. The trouble is, once glued to the hull, these foam 'planks', 'sponsons', can't be removed without damaging the canoe--- if I use the permanent fixative.
If you or anyone could recommend a temporary, water-soluble fixative for the hull that I could play around with and 'trial and error' the best position for them, before gluing permanently, I'd be grateful.

thanks,

chuck
 

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Hi;

Thanks for responding. I'm trying to avoid 'outriggers' as I suspect they would get in the way, especially when landing a fish, or even just retrieving lures.

I'd much rather figure out a 'sponson' solution, a la 'Sportspal', etc. The trouble is, once glued to the hull, these foam 'planks', 'sponsons', can't be removed without damaging the canoe--- if I use the permanent fixative.
If you or anyone could recommend a temporary, water-soluble fixative for the hull that I could play around with and 'trial and error' the best position for them, before gluing permanently, I'd be grateful.

thanks,

chuck
i got an idea it worked for me befor in the past. i had a small 10 footer that was too narrow, for myself ayway. my father used to tip it every time he got in it with me. couldent sit still or low enough lol. what i did was i took 3 fishing bouy's and cut the sides off so they had a flat side to rest apon the canoe. i ran a piece of small ABS pipe up through the center of the bouy's so that it ran the length of the canoe. i tied a piece of string under the canoe to attach to both sets of flotation devices then bungi corded the upper part to the gunnels of the canoe. dad never got him self wet in that little thing again and i stayed allot dryer. bungi cording the unit saved me from glueing and it kept them in place. just had to play with the depth i wanted the bouies to float. i had them just at the water line. added stability and carrying cap to the hull. hope this helps some how.

Rob
 

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i got an idea it worked for me befor in the past. i had a small 10 footer that was too narrow, for myself ayway. my father used to tip it every time he got in it with me. couldent sit still or low enough lol. what i did was i took 3 fishing bouy's and cut the sides off so they had a flat side to rest apon the canoe. i ran a piece of small ABS pipe up through the center of the bouy's so that it ran the length of the canoe. i tied a piece of string under the canoe to attach to both sets of flotation devices then bungi corded the upper part to the gunnels of the canoe. dad never got him self wet in that little thing again and i stayed allot dryer. bungi cording the unit saved me from glueing and it kept them in place. just had to play with the depth i wanted the bouies to float. i had them just at the water line. added stability and carrying cap to the hull. hope this helps some how.

Rob
Thanks, Rob. I'll try thinking along those lines for a removable device. Maybe a long, 25' cargo strap? Food for thought.

cheers,

chuck
 

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I would find the waterline of the canoe when you are in it, and put your floatation onto the canoe about 2 inches above that line. If you canoe is tippy, the other thing you can do is to lower your seat, as long as you have room for your feet and it does not cause an unconfortable sitting position.
I would try to temporarily glue your floatation to your boat first to try, and then use thin bolts with large washers for your final positioning.
Sportspal canoes are usually quite stable which is why their floatation is just under the gunnels.
 

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For the record, what kind of canoe do you have? How long is it, how wide, does it have a keel, and what is it made of. This will help alot to offer proper advice.
 

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I would find the waterline of the canoe when you are in it, and put your floatation onto the canoe about 2 inches above that line. If you canoe is tippy, the other thing you can do is to lower your seat, as long as you have room for your feet and it does not cause an unconfortable sitting position.
I would try to temporarily glue your floatation to your boat first to try, and then use thin bolts with large washers for your final positioning.
Sportspal canoes are usually quite stable which is why their floatation is just under the gunnels.
Hi;

Thanks for the input. My main problem lies in simply getting into the canoe. Once in, it's OK so long as I don't make any lurching moves. Unfortunately, when fishing, my moves tend to be crude and lurch-like.

The seat has already been lowered, and still I find myself sitting on a foam cushion right on the bottom, kayak style, for even more stability--but it's not enough. Hence the need for sponsons.
Plus I would really rather sit in the seat, if I could.

I'll try to get in without dumping, and the mark the water-line with chalk. Depending on how much water it draws, I'll try positioning [with rope or straps] the 5' long, 3" thick, 5.75" wide foam 'planks' as high as possible, and if necessary, work my way down to a 2" clearance.

If that fails, I guess I'll have to go for 2.5' long, 6" thick sponsons. If it gets to that point then I'm not sure that there would be any 'good' way to bolt them to the sides?

Thanks again. Please keep the ideas coming, people.

cheers,

chuck
 

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You would be better off cutting your plank lengthwise and fastening it to your canoe using the widest part of the belly of your canoe as the midpoint of your sponson. Sports Pal does it with threaded metal fastners and large washers. Regards....
 

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Chuck, do you want to try my sportspal to see if the sponsons are for you before you do anything to your canoe, just let me know.

Greg
 

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This may sound like a dumb question, but have you ever actually tipped the canoe? Some boats and canoe always have a bit of tippiness, and ANY sudden moves or lurches will make any boat shake. If this is the case, all the stabilization will not change it. All the foam will do is lessen the chance of tipping, but will not fix the shakiness. A deeper keel may help. You may have to consider changing to a different boat. Most canoes and kayaks have some "shake" otherwise they would be a barge. Best of luck.
 

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This may sound like a dumb question, but have you ever actually tipped the canoe? Some boats and canoe always have a bit of tippiness, and ANY sudden moves or lurches will make any boat shake. If this is the case, all the stabilization will not change it. All the foam will do is lessen the chance of tipping, but will not fix the shakiness. A deeper keel may help. You may have to consider changing to a different boat. Most canoes and kayaks have some "shake" otherwise they would be a barge. Best of luck.
Hi;

No, it is not merely 'shake'. I get dumped nearly every time I try to get in it. It then fills with water and I have to empty it.
It has a bad rep for being highly unstable, but a very good rep in many other respects. It is the only canoe that, at my age, I can car top by myself, [because it only weighs 33 lbs]. Also I can portage it much further than other rigid craft. It does not have a keel, just a smooth flat bottom.

I really want to keep it so I'm determined to lick the dumping problem.

cheers,

chuck
 

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It sounds a bit like a "Sports Pal" at 33 lbs. I too have a SP but it has a flat stern. If you are in metro and want to see how stable it is, or how the sponsons are fastned,let me know. Regards....
 

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It sounds a bit like a "Sports Pal" at 33 lbs. I too have a SP but it has a flat stern. If you are in metro and want to see how stable it is, or how the sponsons are fastned,let me know. Regards....
Hi;

I didn't know that Sportspal made a 34 lb solo canoe, or maybe I would have bought one. Of course, I didn't know how unstable the Oldtown Pack was, either. Live and learn.

The Sportspal has a 38" beam, to the Pack's 32". It also has 3 keels to none. That may account for its stability, compared to the Pack's lack thereof. I don't know.

Now, since the Pack even comes in an 'angler' version, it seems to me that most people must be able to not only get into a Pack, but fish from it without dumping. Maybe I'll learn, but I will have to use 'training wheels' [sponsons] first, then take them off if and when I get the knack of it. So, I've decided to simply strap my foam 'planks' to the sides with cargo straps [$2.00 at the dollar store]. That will allow me to experiment with positioning, and to remove the sponsons without leaving a mark on the hull.

SM, you and Gregory [and no doubt several others] have these lite, stable Sportspal canoes, but use other boats to fish out of. Can I ask why? What is/are the problem with them? At first blush they seem like a better deal for anglers than the Pack, but given the Pack's ongoing competitive consumer position there must be a flaw in the Sportspal, somewhere.

cheers,

chuck
 
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