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Flex Coat Rod Finnish


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#1 trout snout

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 06:11 PM

Wow only the 4 or 5th time workin with this stuff and have found that it is very fussy its on the rod now but my first attempt almost ruined an otherwise nice rod. Is there a trick or a more consistant product hopefully it sets up properly
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#2 Xlobsterman

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Posted 13 March 2011 - 04:36 AM

Wow only the 4 or 5th time workin with this stuff and have found that it is very fussy its on the rod now but my first attempt almost ruined an otherwise nice rod. Is there a trick or a more consistant product hopefully it sets up properly


I am not sure why you seem to be having problems? I have used flex coat for 30+ years, and IMO, it works great!!!

What are you using to measure the 2 parts?

Did you use a coat of color preserver on the threads first, before applying the flex coat?

At what temperature are you trying to apply the flex coat?

What are you using to turn the rod while applying the flex coat?
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#3 Woolybugger

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Posted 13 March 2011 - 08:22 AM

You shouldn't have any issues with Flex Coat, it's all I use. What problem are you having with it. I never use color preserver so I don't know how it reacts with it and I mix mine in a small mixing cup and then place it on some tinfoil, it helps get rid of some bubbles and it takes a little bit longer to harden up. Let us know what's going on and how your preparing it and we'll be able to help ya out.
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#4 Xlobsterman

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Posted 13 March 2011 - 09:02 AM

I never use color preserver so I don't know how it reacts with it


There is not any reaction with the color preserver. The coat of color preserver saturates the threads, and seals them up when it dries. This gives you a nice solid base to apply the flex coat too, with no absorption by the treads. IMO, it makes for a nicer finish! Posted Image
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#5 trout snout

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Posted 13 March 2011 - 03:00 PM

it came with the syringes its what i use to measure. I mix it in a cup. No colour preserver. temp 22-25c. And it turns about 10 rpm on a syncronous motor rig with gears. the problem may have been that it was a little too cool in the room it just started to set up real fast the other 3 or 4 times it worked great but had the room up to temp when i started. then one other time I mixed it the same way and it didnt want to set at all. the problem may hav also have been me. doin another rod soon this one looks great now. thanks for reasuring the product I may have to watch my technique

cheers mat
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#6 Xlobsterman

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Posted 13 March 2011 - 05:52 PM

it came with the syringes its what i use to measure. I mix it in a cup. No colour preserver. temp 22-25c. And it turns about 10 rpm on a syncronous motor rig with gears. the problem may have been that it was a little too cool in the room it just started to set up real fast the other 3 or 4 times it worked great but had the room up to temp when i started. then one other time I mixed it the same way and it didnt want to set at all. the problem may hav also have been me. doin another rod soon this one looks great now. thanks for reasuring the product I may have to watch my technique

cheers mat


It sounds like you are doing everything right! Posted Image
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#7 Trout Bum

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Posted 13 March 2011 - 08:17 PM

It sounds like you are doing everything right! Posted Image

Trout Snout, Flexi-coat is not very good in my opinion and others that I know who build rods won't use it either...but many do. I prefer U40 : http://www.u-40.com/rodbond.html it sets up very clear, release any bubbles very easily and makes for a professional job. I have to order it in, as the loal shop doesn't carry it. Fever does have some of thier products, so could order it in.

Regradless, there are some steps that should be taken when apply either product. I mix it in a shot glass, mix with something that is non-poris, mix it slow as to not inject alot of air, mix the recommended minimum (6ml I think). make sure the material is warm(i run my under hot water before taking it out of the bottles) so that there are no crytals and that it flows and mixes esaily. Poor from the glass to a tin-foil cup, this wil let it flatten out and release bubbles, keep it warm (I use my lamp) while you use it to ensure all bubbles release.

Hope it helps Randall
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****************************************************
"I fish because I love to, not because I regard
fishing as being so terribly important
but because I suspect that so many of the
other concerns of man are equally
unimportant; and not nearly so much fun."
Robert Traver's Anatomy Of A Fisherman:
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#8 Woolybugger

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Posted 13 March 2011 - 08:38 PM

Yes I forgot, I too let mine sit in a cup of hot water before using. Another thing to do if you get any bubbles is to use a tourch and very lightly run it across your finish, it will heat it up enough to bring the bubbles out. I do this on all my wraps either way, it will thin it out enough to get a good level coat. You have to be very carefull though.

I don't know what the problem with the flex coat is, I never had any issues in 10 years of using it.

Are you using thick or thin. I only use the thin stuff and do 2 coats.
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Catch and Release fishing is a lot like golf. You don't have to eat the ball to have a good time

#9 Trout Bum

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Posted 13 March 2011 - 08:58 PM

Yes I forgot, I too let mine sit in a cup of hot water before using. Another thing to do if you get any bubbles is to use a tourch and very lightly run it across your finish, it will heat it up enough to bring the bubbles out. I do this on all my wraps either way, it will thin it out enough to get a good level coat. You have to be very carefull though.

I don't know what the problem with the flex coat is, I never had any issues in 10 years of using it.

Are you using thick or thin. I only use the thin stuff and do 2 coats.


Good point, I always do two coats, one just enough to saturate the wraps and another to build up the finish to the desired height.

R
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****************************************************
"I fish because I love to, not because I regard
fishing as being so terribly important
but because I suspect that so many of the
other concerns of man are equally
unimportant; and not nearly so much fun."
Robert Traver's Anatomy Of A Fisherman:
****************************************************

#10 Xlobsterman

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Posted 14 March 2011 - 04:59 AM

Yes I forgot, I too let mine sit in a cup of hot water before using. Another thing to do if you get any bubbles is to use a tourch and very lightly run it across your finish, it will heat it up enough to bring the bubbles out. I do this on all my wraps either way, it will thin it out enough to get a good level coat. You have to be very carefull though.


I would STRONGLY discourage the use of a TORCH on your finish!!! This could have disastrous results no matter how careful you are!!!!! If you feel the need to use a heat source, use a low wattage heat gun, or a hair dryer.

I always do two coats, one just enough to saturate the wraps and another to build up the finish to the desired height.


As I stated earlier, the use of a coat of color preserver before your finish will saturate and seal your threads! This will virtually eliminate any air trapped in the threads from leaving air bubbles in your finish!
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#11 trout snout

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Posted 14 March 2011 - 04:39 PM

thanks guys i used a forced air space heater to eliminate the bubbles and i did warm it up and also while i mixed it up i did it in front of the heater which released alot of bubbles. as for the u40 ill be using flex coat for a while as i bought the small bottles and dont want to spend more needless cash but next time maybe ill try that stuff. wb also heard of people using an alcohol lamp instead of a torch but my little heater worked great. Xlobsterman if you use a colour preserver will the light coloured wraps still go clear like with just flex coat i think its a beautiful effect.

again thanks guys 17 days and counting
mat
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#12 trout snout

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Posted 14 March 2011 - 04:42 PM

oh and i use the thin or low build and just do 1 coat and find it to be good
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#13 Xlobsterman

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Posted 14 March 2011 - 04:57 PM

Xlobsterman if you use a colour preserver will the light coloured wraps still go clear like with just flex coat i think its a beautiful effect.


I am not quite sure what you are referring too? Is the thread going clear? I am confused? What size thread are you using?
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#14 trout snout

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Posted 14 March 2011 - 05:21 PM

i used a very light green size a thread white turns invisible and you can see the guide feet through the wraps the light green went a little darker and transluscent looks awesome on the dark green blank i like light colored thread for this reason
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#15 trout snout

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Posted 14 March 2011 - 05:22 PM

its like a wet t shirt contest for rod builders haha lol
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#16 trout snout

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Posted 14 March 2011 - 05:52 PM

posted a pic under fly tying of the clear wraps that is finished product lt green size a gudebrod thread 1 coat of flex coat
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#17 Xlobsterman

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Posted 14 March 2011 - 06:33 PM

i used a very light green size a thread white turns invisible and you can see the guide feet through the wraps the light green went a little darker and transluscent looks awesome on the dark green blank i like light colored thread for this reason



OK, now I understand!!! You are also using untreated thread. I have never used much size A thread, only a few times on some real light spinning rods many years ago. Most of my work was with size C treated thread for building heavier saltwater rods.

BTW, I have some rods I built 30 years ago, and the Flex Coat finish has yellowed slightly.................just FYI.

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#18 Woolybugger

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Posted 14 March 2011 - 09:18 PM

[quote name='Xlobsterman' date='14 March 2011 - 04:59 AM' timestamp='1300093188' post='11369']
I would STRONGLY discourage the use of a TORCH on your finish!!! This could have disastrous results no matter how careful you are!!!!! If you feel the need to use a heat source, use a low wattage heat gun, or a hair dryer.

Been doing it for 10 years with no issues and the guy I got the tip from has been doing it for 30+ without any issues.
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#19 Xlobsterman

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 03:59 AM

Been doing it for 10 years with no issues and the guy I got the tip from has been doing it for 30+ without any issues.



OK.......................if it works for you!
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#20 Cerrabus

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 03:00 PM

I use thread master one, one part epoxy and it works great. No mixing required, no big issues with bubbles and cleans up with water.

Cheers,
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