
Flex Coat Rod Finnish
#1
Posted 12 March 2011 - 06:11 PM
#2
Posted 13 March 2011 - 04:36 AM
Wow only the 4 or 5th time workin with this stuff and have found that it is very fussy its on the rod now but my first attempt almost ruined an otherwise nice rod. Is there a trick or a more consistant product hopefully it sets up properly
I am not sure why you seem to be having problems? I have used flex coat for 30+ years, and IMO, it works great!!!
What are you using to measure the 2 parts?
Did you use a coat of color preserver on the threads first, before applying the flex coat?
At what temperature are you trying to apply the flex coat?
What are you using to turn the rod while applying the flex coat?
#3
Posted 13 March 2011 - 08:22 AM
#4
Posted 13 March 2011 - 09:02 AM
I never use color preserver so I don't know how it reacts with it
There is not any reaction with the color preserver. The coat of color preserver saturates the threads, and seals them up when it dries. This gives you a nice solid base to apply the flex coat too, with no absorption by the treads. IMO, it makes for a nicer finish!

#5
Posted 13 March 2011 - 03:00 PM
cheers mat
#6
Posted 13 March 2011 - 05:52 PM
it came with the syringes its what i use to measure. I mix it in a cup. No colour preserver. temp 22-25c. And it turns about 10 rpm on a syncronous motor rig with gears. the problem may have been that it was a little too cool in the room it just started to set up real fast the other 3 or 4 times it worked great but had the room up to temp when i started. then one other time I mixed it the same way and it didnt want to set at all. the problem may hav also have been me. doin another rod soon this one looks great now. thanks for reasuring the product I may have to watch my technique
cheers mat
It sounds like you are doing everything right!

#7
Posted 13 March 2011 - 08:17 PM
Trout Snout, Flexi-coat is not very good in my opinion and others that I know who build rods won't use it either...but many do. I prefer U40 : http://www.u-40.com/rodbond.html it sets up very clear, release any bubbles very easily and makes for a professional job. I have to order it in, as the loal shop doesn't carry it. Fever does have some of thier products, so could order it in.It sounds like you are doing everything right!
Regradless, there are some steps that should be taken when apply either product. I mix it in a shot glass, mix with something that is non-poris, mix it slow as to not inject alot of air, mix the recommended minimum (6ml I think). make sure the material is warm(i run my under hot water before taking it out of the bottles) so that there are no crytals and that it flows and mixes esaily. Poor from the glass to a tin-foil cup, this wil let it flatten out and release bubbles, keep it warm (I use my lamp) while you use it to ensure all bubbles release.
Hope it helps Randall
"I fish because I love to, not because I regard
fishing as being so terribly important
but because I suspect that so many of the
other concerns of man are equally
unimportant; and not nearly so much fun."
Robert Traver's Anatomy Of A Fisherman:
****************************************************
#8
Posted 13 March 2011 - 08:38 PM
I don't know what the problem with the flex coat is, I never had any issues in 10 years of using it.
Are you using thick or thin. I only use the thin stuff and do 2 coats.
#9
Posted 13 March 2011 - 08:58 PM
Yes I forgot, I too let mine sit in a cup of hot water before using. Another thing to do if you get any bubbles is to use a tourch and very lightly run it across your finish, it will heat it up enough to bring the bubbles out. I do this on all my wraps either way, it will thin it out enough to get a good level coat. You have to be very carefull though.
I don't know what the problem with the flex coat is, I never had any issues in 10 years of using it.
Are you using thick or thin. I only use the thin stuff and do 2 coats.
Good point, I always do two coats, one just enough to saturate the wraps and another to build up the finish to the desired height.
R
"I fish because I love to, not because I regard
fishing as being so terribly important
but because I suspect that so many of the
other concerns of man are equally
unimportant; and not nearly so much fun."
Robert Traver's Anatomy Of A Fisherman:
****************************************************
#10
Posted 14 March 2011 - 04:59 AM
Yes I forgot, I too let mine sit in a cup of hot water before using. Another thing to do if you get any bubbles is to use a tourch and very lightly run it across your finish, it will heat it up enough to bring the bubbles out. I do this on all my wraps either way, it will thin it out enough to get a good level coat. You have to be very carefull though.
I would STRONGLY discourage the use of a TORCH on your finish!!! This could have disastrous results no matter how careful you are!!!!! If you feel the need to use a heat source, use a low wattage heat gun, or a hair dryer.
I always do two coats, one just enough to saturate the wraps and another to build up the finish to the desired height.
As I stated earlier, the use of a coat of color preserver before your finish will saturate and seal your threads! This will virtually eliminate any air trapped in the threads from leaving air bubbles in your finish!
#11
Posted 14 March 2011 - 04:39 PM
again thanks guys 17 days and counting
mat
#12
Posted 14 March 2011 - 04:42 PM
#14
Posted 14 March 2011 - 05:21 PM
#15
Posted 14 March 2011 - 05:22 PM
#16
Posted 14 March 2011 - 05:52 PM
#17
Posted 14 March 2011 - 06:33 PM
i used a very light green size a thread white turns invisible and you can see the guide feet through the wraps the light green went a little darker and transluscent looks awesome on the dark green blank i like light colored thread for this reason
OK, now I understand!!! You are also using untreated thread. I have never used much size A thread, only a few times on some real light spinning rods many years ago. Most of my work was with size C treated thread for building heavier saltwater rods.
BTW, I have some rods I built 30 years ago, and the Flex Coat finish has yellowed slightly.................just FYI.
#18
Posted 14 March 2011 - 09:18 PM
I would STRONGLY discourage the use of a TORCH on your finish!!! This could have disastrous results no matter how careful you are!!!!! If you feel the need to use a heat source, use a low wattage heat gun, or a hair dryer.
Been doing it for 10 years with no issues and the guy I got the tip from has been doing it for 30+ without any issues.
#20
Posted 10 May 2013 - 03:00 PM
Cheers,
J Plamondon
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